Suzy Menkes Critiques Ferragamo And Roberto Cavalli's Autumn/Winter 2018 Reveals

  1. 一年前

    Backstage at Ferragamo, Paul Andrew had a mood board that ignited the clothes collection he designed for the first time. This was for the Autumn/Winter 2018 show, which now dressed the models from toe to top - extending his earlier, and successful, position to rev up a home that was founded as 'shoe maker to the stars'. He added the Duchess of Devonshire - maybe in honour of his own British origins.

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    "I am obsessive about the sequence The Crown - that was the starting point of the collection," said the designer, referring to the Netflix royal story. At their finest, these generously reduce pieces looked like something appropriate for in the present day, while the menswear designed by Guillaume Meilland was fashionable and sharp.

    Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2018

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    Andrew scored strongly in colour, utilizing the same painterly shades that appeared on folded paper inside the invitation and on the dividing partitions of the presentation house. The designer obtained the footwear spot on, from the daffodil-yellow ostrich-leather boots that opened the show to the olive-green ones or another pair with the gilded square heel that Andrew created based on an archival type. Now that Andrew has brought them up to date over the last two years, he has created a publish-millennium imaginative and prescient of what the founder did and which the present technology has been able to understand. The brand's problem has been its inability to comply with Gucci or Prada into producing clothes as definitive as the footwear and handbags. Placing both genders together on the runway proved that Andrew understood the current melding of feminine with male. And if the present had been cut by half, it might have regarded extra dynamic.

    However it's an enormous ask to show a footwear creator right into a style designer in a single present. Andrew has the data, the modern angle - and positively an appreciation of workmanship and colour - to provide ferragamo belt outlet , in due time, a wider attain.

    Salvatore ferragamo belt outlet Belt - official source , Ferragamo's Design Director of menswear, Guillaume Meilland takes a bow alongside Artistic Director Paul Andrew on the Autumn/Winter 2018 present in Milan

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    By Suzy Menkes

    Paul Surridge rekindles the Roberto Cavalli flame

    The first whizz-bang look at the Roberto Cavalli assortment was a leopard-print jacket over a short curvy dress that clung to the thighs. It proved - as a lot as ankle-size or mid-calf coats for each sexes - that designer Paul Surridge is a great tailor.

    However finding the weather of the unique, however now retired designer, that will work in a publish-Weinstein world is extra of a challenge. The earlier plush fur coats in painterly colours that had been stock items could be questionable in the present day, even when these Milan reveals have not but been heckled and booed by offended anti-fur demonstrators, as in different cities.

    But most of all, the out-there sexiness of Italy's Berlusconi years, when Cavalli thrived, is being challenged across the world. Girls hitting their stride in excessive boots leaving a fleshy gap at the sides doesn't appear a great match with the present mood. A costume with its fabric gouged out to reveal the navel and thighs seemed even less applicable for Autumn/Winter 2018. Which will have been more apparent in the men's outfits in the collection, however the assured rigour of those masculine strains was adopted additionally for a girls's cropped leather-based jacket or a camel coat that wrapped the physique above a bias-cut skirt to create a wavy hemline. All this outerwear had the confident dash of the original Cavalli spirit, with a purposeful, modern imaginative and prescient.

    Roberto Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2018

    The succession query is such a major topic in the present trend world, with houses from New York to Paris to right here in Milan looking for an answer. This new Cavalli collection could perhaps have been presented in a way that focused on Surridge's tailoring expertise - for instance an opening of 10 completely made fits for both sexes. But the cruel truth is that this: Roberto Cavalli's vision, powerful because it once was, is not a good match with attitudes of and to ladies in these instances. The current designer must take a deep breath and suppose a couple of change, perhaps within the type of presentation as much as content material, to make the brand seem relevant to now.


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